GOZO, Malta -- Legend has it that the witch Calypso trapped the mighty Odysseus on the island of Gozo for seven years, and a visit to this lovely Mediterranean island makes it easy to understand why the wandering hero lingered so long.

Gozo's main draw is its dramatic coastline, with spectacular cliffs interspersed with beautiful beaches. Take in the towering Azure Window, a 50 meter hole in the cliff where crashing waves create fountains of spray. Nearby is the inland sea where you can enjoy a boat ride through a narrow tunnel into the Mediterranean.

Both places are popular dive sites as well, and there are plenty of outfitters to lead you on over 50 dive sites, ranging from caves to wrecks to open water. At "Scuba Kings" in the popular seafront village of Marsalforn, transplanted Brit Richard King provides custom tailored dive packages for every skill level. King even offers a 40 Euro "try dive" for those curious about the sport, simply by walking across the street from his shop and into the warm waters. PADI certification at all levels is also available.

If you prefer to remain on terra firma, Gozo has dozens of secluded beaches. Visit the red sands of Ramla beach, sparkling beneath Calypso's cave where the enchantress supposedly lived.

The whole island is ideal for hiking, and paths crisscross the varied landscape. Lush valleys lay nestled between medieval cities perched on craggy plateaus, and the cliff-strewn coastline is never far away.

All roads lead to the capital city of Victoria, where the dramatic silhouette of the Citadel dominates the skyline. During ancient days when pirate raids were the norm, every citizen of Gozo had to be sheltered within the massive walls before nightfall. Today, the fortifications house a trio of museums where you can trace the island's 5,000 year old history.

One of the most dramatic examples of Gozo's long occupation is the temple of Ggantija near the village of Xaghra. Now a World Heritage Site, the temple is documented as the oldest free-standing structure in the world, predating the pyramids at Giza and England's Stonehenge by almost 1000 years.

The island is studded with newer temples as well, and each village boasts a church with stunning architecture. Only a few kilometers from Victoria stands the Ta' Pinu Sanctuary, an important pilgrimage site since Karmela Grima claimed to have heard the voice of the Virgin Mary calling out to her in 1883.

Gozo's spectacular scenery has inspired dozens of film projects throughout the years. On the tiny island of Comino, a 10-minute boat ride away, the Blue Lagoon is featured in the Brad Pitt film "Troy", while St. Mary's Tower doubled as the prison Chateau d'If in the 2002 version of "The Count of Monte Cristo." A short ferry ride across to Malta stands Popeye village, the main set for the Robin Williams version of the spinach-loving sailor. The place is now a theme park, and kids of all ages will enjoy wandering through the twisting streets.

When all this wandering works up an appetite, stop into one of the many restaurants to sample some of the local delicacies. Rabbit is extremely popular and can be served grilled, roasted, or minced in a delightful pasta sauce. But the real treat is in the fresh seafood, and every morning you can see local fishermen bringing their catches into the waiting restaurants.

"Ta Pennellu" on the waterfront of Marsalforn is a family-run restaurant where eldest son Anthony weaves recipes brought home from the far-flung travels of his sailor father with locally available ingredients to create uniquely mouth-watering dishes. Enjoy homemade pastas, sauces, and a variety of fresh fish served on the waterfront or within the cozy interior decorated with Anthony's internationally shown original artwork. Compliment your meal with one of the many varieties of local wine, such as the fruity Maltese Falcon.

Whether you visit Gozo for the rich history, the tranquil beaches, or the spectacular diving, you will find a place that seems much farther removed from the bustle of busy Malta than the 20-minute ferry ride would suggest. If you seek relaxation in a mystical land that time seems to have overlooked, Gozo should definitely find a place on your itinerary.