A taste of the street at Joint Base Lewis-McChord's Exchange

By Laura M. Levering (Northwest Guardian)February 3, 2011

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Street food has long been associated with carnivals and major cities across the country. From frozen treats like ice cream to hot meals, any food imaginable can be prepared and served from a portable stand or trailer.

The Joint Base Lewis-McChord community doesn't have to leave base or endure long lines to get a taste of such cuisine. In addition to an indoor food court, the Lewis Main Exchange features a handful of street vendors outside its two entrances. General Manager Patrick McGhee sees the street vendors as one way to provide more choices for a growing customer base.

"They complement our Exchange food line-up with local businesses that bring in a local flavor," McGhee said. "These businesses are proud supporters of our families and troops, and that is another reason they are here."

At least three of the vendors are Army veterans, and another fell in love with the community after moving his stand from downtown Seattle. Each offers treats unique to what's inside, and each has a story to share. For Sgt. Brandon Ernst, stopping by for a couple fresh, roasted ears of corn results in more than a satisfied stomach.

"It's a little taste of home, and it's good conversation," said Ernst, 4th Brigade, 2nd Infantry Division.

Vendors are required to complete food sanitation classes through the Department of Preventive Health Medicine. They are also inspected monthly by the Army Medical Department. All of them serve fresh food. Though that generally means waiting a few extra minutes, customer Dorothea Hash and her daughters hardly seemed to mind.

"I like it, but my daughters especially like it - and they're picky," Hash said, as they waited for lunch from Benje's Southern BBQ. "It's good food, and they are willing to wait for it."

Hot dogs of all kinds

It has become part of the sights and sounds around the Lewis Main Exchange.

"Hot off the grill - summer-time thrill!"

Owner of "Hot Dogs to Go," Tony Lorenzo Wright, can be heard chanting those words on any given day.

"It's not just a regular hot dog," Wright said. "If they eat my dogs in the winter or even when it's raining, it's gonna infuse a little summertime in their souls."

A veteran Soldier, accountant and civil servant, Wright combined his business knowledge with his love for Soldiers and food. His brother started "Seattle Sausages" in downtown Seattle, which is where Wright's idea for hot dogs came from.

Wright's menu goes beyond the basic frank. He serves up beef, kielbasa, polish, hot links, Italian and veggie dogs.

Wright remembers being a child when he first fell in love with food. It began with cooking on a wooden stove - under adult supervision - at age 7. He firmly believes cooking is about love, and is known to recite an original poem to customers titled, "Love, Food and Troubles." For him, food is a very special business - one that doesn't compare to accounting.

"Everybody eats. The only people who don't eat food are dead," Wright said. "When you give people food, you're interacting with them on a personal level, and I want to make it special."

Southern-style barbecue

Army veteran Benje Smith brought "Benje's Southern BBQ" from Lacey to JBLM about 20 months ago after two Soldiers stopped by and convinced him to move.

"They were so impressed by the food and said that I just had to come up here, so I did," Smith said.

Smith hails from Georgia, where he learned to cook at 8. He uses family recipes generations old - dating back over 150 years - to make "home cooked, authentic" meals from his mobile kitchen. From his Georgian pulled pork, brisket, ribs and hot links to the potato and macaroni salads, baked beans and coleslaw, everything on Smith's menu has a southern influence.

Although his roots are in Georgia, the Pacific Northwest won his heart during a visit in the late 90s - so much so that he decided to sell his restaurant back home in Georgia, and start over here. He pursued a medical career for about eight years, but it became clear that cooking was his passion. He opened his mobile restaurant about three years ago and plans to open a full-sized restaurant in the future.

Smith said owning a restaurant is a lot of work, but well worth each satisfied cusomer.

"They say, 'Ahh, it reminds me of home.' They want that home cooked, comfort meal."

Meatballs and roasted corn

Roasted corn and chestnuts are a hot commodity in this region, and Mehmet Ocak provides them.

Ocak moved "Ocak's Roasted Corn and Chestnuts" from downtown Seattle to JBLM after being invited by the Lewis Main Exchange general manager last year. He's been commuting from West Seattle everyday since starting here in September. The drive is long, but Ocak doesn't mind. He enjoys the change of scenery and customers who regularly stop by for food and conversation.

"I like the people over here, and I like the atmosphere," said the native of Turkey. "It's nice and clean and the people are so friendly."

The secret to Ocak's tender chestnuts are in the hours they spend soaking in water.

"The longer the better," he said. "The shells are very sensitive and dry. If you roast them before you soak them, the shells burn and the inside doesn't get cooked."

Corn is roasted on a grill separate from the chestnuts, then seasoned with the customer's choice of salt, butter and Cajun spices.

Ocak plans to replace chestnuts, which are seasonal, with meatball sandwiches in the near future. It comes as no surprise to those who know him in West Seattle, where Ocak sold Turkish meatballs years ago and earned the nickname "meatball genius."

Secret spices

Roc Mikel wanted to remain close to Soldiers while generating an income after retiring from the Army, and thought felt the perfect way to do so was with his passion for cooking.

"The reason I'm here is because I feel partial to the Soldiers," Mikel said.

Named after his son, Mikel brought "Ceasar's Grill" to JBLM in August. Gyros are his specialty, but he also serves a variety of wraps and sandwiches including beef schnitzel, grilled chicken, stuffed cream beef and baja chicken. Each is served with salad or fries.

Mikel prides himself on using the finest ingredients, beginning with his seasoning concoctions. He combines 66 different spices in one shaker, and 45 in another - all Arabian and Indian. He bought each of the spices directly from Jordan, and keeps them stored in his home freezer. Each day he blends them by hand - all of them.

"There's nothing like Indian and Arabian spices," he said. "They're the best and most expensive spices in the world."

Mikel makes everything from scratch, including the cream and salsa that accompany his plates. All of the dishes use recipes created by him, and nothing is processed or pre-made.

"Here, you have everything cooked when you order," Mikel said. "You might wait a few extra minutes, but it is fresh and cooked right in front of you."