Darby Day Trip: Volterra

Volterra is the epitome of a medieval city, perched on a hilltop between the Cecina and Era valleys. Its double walls date back to the 13th century and even earlier Etruscan times. In fact, Volterra was one of the primary city-states in ancient Etruria, when the city was known as “Veláthri.” Its high import continued in the Middle Ages when it was the seat of a prominent episcopal lordship.

More recently, Volterra achieved contemporary fame when it was featured in the book “New Moon,” from the famed “Twilight” vampire series by Stephanie Meyer. It was set as the home of an ancient group of vampires called the “Volturi.”

There are many delightful things to see and do in Volterra, including just spending a leisurely day enjoying its breathtaking beauty and scenic vistas. Here are a few highlights to include:

Alabaster

For centuries, Volterra has been known for the production of alabaster. This semi-translucent, white-hued stone has a particularly ethereal beauty. In the hands of Volterra’s talented artists, its majesty truly shines. You can experience this extraordinary art form in shops throughout town and at the Eco-museum of Alabaster.

Art and Architecture

Be sure to visit Volterra’s Piazza dei Priori, the main square where you’ll find the Palazzo dei Priori (which now serves as city hall). The building’s façade is adorned in ancient emblems made from glazed earthenware and marble.

Piazza dei Priori is also home to Palazzo Pretorio, which is considered one of the town’s first towers. It is referred to as the “Tower of the Little Pig” because it supports a small stone pig on a shelf.

Step inside the Duomo, a Romanesque building that was constructed on the site of the original church in the 12th century. The entrance was added a century later and the interior was modified in the 16th century, resulting in its current Renaissance form. Take note of the elaborate ceiling, surrounding chapel frescos, and the marble pulpit, which dates back to the 12th century.

Across the square, you’ll find the 13th-century baptistry. This octagon-based structure is composed of green and white marble. The baptismal font inside mirrors the building’s octagonal shape and was sculpted from marble by Sansovino in 1502.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is home to many priceless artistic and religious treasures, including a 1228 Deposition, Romanesque sculpture, Sacrament Chapel and Addolorata Chapel. The cathedral was enlarged in the 13th century, following an earthquake, and the bell tower was added in 1493.

There are also several noteworthy galleries in town. In the Church of Sant’Agostino, you’ll find the Museum of Sacred Art, which is home to a variety of historic works. The Pinacoteca Art Gallery, housed in the Palazzo Minucci-Solaini, contains Tuscan artwork from the 14th to 17th centuries.

Archaeology

Volterra is full of archaeological sites. Be sure to visit the Roman Amphitheater, which was built in the 1st century B.C. Nearby, you’ll find remnants of the Roman baths, from the 4th century A.D., as well as what remains of a Roman forum. This area was covered by a garbage dump in the Middle Ages and excavated beginning in 1951.

Across town, you’ll find the Etruscan Acropolis. Archaeological excavations of this site have unearthed evidence of a temple complex dating back to the 7th century B.C. From here, locate the entrance and descend a set of spiral steps into the Roman Cistern. This subterranean room was created in the 1st century A.D. and is believed to have provided water to city residents. It was also a filming site for the 1965 production of “Vaghe Stelle dell’Orsa.”

Just walking around Volterra’s historical walls is a unique archaeological experience. You’ll discover six gates, of which the Porta Diana and Porta dell’Arco are particularly well preserved. While the city walls were built in the 13th century, the Porta dell’Arco is the sole remnant of the town’s 5th-century walls.

For a deeper historical dive, check out the Etruscan Museum, which houses an expansive collection of funeral urns from the Archaic and Hellenistic periods.

Cheese

While you’re in town, try some Pecorino delle Balze Volterrane DOP. This delicious cheese is crafted from raw milk and vegetable rennet from thistle flowers or artichokes. This cheese is believed to have been produced in the Volterra region since 1400. It is also known as the “pecorino of the Etruscans.”

Whatever you choose to do in Volterra, this iconic town is sure to leave you with positive memories and unique impressions, as it has for centuries of visitors.